88006 Textiles: Dye Methods
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particular session, location and mode of offering is the authoritative source
of all information about the subject for that offering. Required texts, recommended texts and references in particular are likely to change. Students will be provided with a subject outline once they enrol in the subject.
Subject handbook information prior to 2025 is available in the Archives.
Credit points: 6 cp
Subject level:
Undergraduate
Result type: Grade and marksRecommended studies:
Experience with textile studies is a benefit but is not essential.
Description
This subject is taught as a twelve-week textile elective on campus. Students are introduced to the principles of natural dyes and mordants, colour and resist patterning. Through a series of dye workshops, students are encouraged to investigate innovative approaches to colouring and patterning cloth. This subject introduces students to methods of generating resist textile patterning and unique printing techniques such as binding, stitching, clamp resist, contact printing and critic acid printing. The studio explores natural fibbers and fabrics and their perfomance with to a variety of natural dye colours and mordants. Through material experimentation, students develop textile concepts and colour sensibilities in a sophisticated and individual way. An emphasis throughout the subject is placed on a professional and sustainable print room practice.
Subject learning objectives (SLOs)
On successful completion of this subject, students should be able to:
| 1. | Develop a fundamental understanding of the elements of textile and surface design. |
|---|---|
| 2. | Gain knowledge into commercial dyes and their applications in industry. |
| 3. | Explore ancient forms of dyestuff and mordants. |
| 4. | Experiment with various Shibori techniques together with an understanding of cultural significance in dyes and patterning. |
| 5. | Apply dye techniques to various textile surfaces. |
| 6. | Demonstrate professional workshop practice and knowledge of Workplace Health and Safety requirements in the Print workshop. |
Course intended learning outcomes (CILOs)
This subject also contributes to the following Course Intended Learning Outcomes:
- Recognise the importance of sustainability to fashion and textiles industries (A.1)
- Demonstrate an ability to speculate, experiment, challenge boundaries and take risks (I.2)
- Demonstrate an ability to adapt technology and materials creatively (I.3)
- Demonstrate the ability to acquire, use and integrate relevant technical skills into creative projects. (P.2)
- Accuracy, rigour and care (P.5)
- Analyse and synthesise knowledge in both visual and written forms to undertake in-depth research. (R.1)
- Ability to reflect on practice and research (R.3)
Contribution to the development of graduate attributes
The term CAPRI is used for the five Design, Architecture and Building graduate attribute categories where:
C = communication and group work
A = attitudes and values
P = practical and professional
R = research and critique
I = innovation and creativity
Course intended learning outcomes (CILOs) are linked to these categories using codes (e.g. C-1, A-3, P-4, etc.).
This subject encourages student learning to develop these graduate attributes. The course content, learning strategies and assessment structure is explicitly designed with these attributes in mind.
Teaching and learning strategies
This subject is delivered in three hours per week as an on campus workshop. The activities for this subject are centred on self-initiated learning, reinforcing the independent approach to building knowledge and skills. Students are expected to conduct independent research, attend all classes and follow up on dye exploration and preparation required for the following week for each of their individual projects. Students must refer to the subject program for clarification of required assessment and weekly tasks.
STUDIO WORKSHOPS
In the weekly three hour workshops students will learn how to integrate the principles of textile dye and pattern in their designs. Dye workshops introduce students to sustainable and creative approaches to colour through experimentation in natural dye and mordants. These workshops provide students with opportunities to experiment with methods and techniques used in fashion and textile industries.
Emphasising creative exploration, learning in all facets of studio workshops is crucial to ensuring students deploy the design thinking and technical expertise required in this subject and the field. All students are expected to attend studio sessions, and follow suggested learning patterns and activities. Students are also encouraged to participate actively in the group discussions that occur during the studio sessions.
WORKPLACE HEALTH AND SAFETY (WHS)
An emphasis throughout the subject is placed on a professional and sustainable practice. Students are expected to be professional in their practice at home as they would be in a studio workshop and be aware of knowledge of WHS requirements.
RESEARCH
Students are expected to conduct independent research supported by recommended texts accessible via UTS Online. Readings assist students to develop essential content knowledge related to both fashion and textile design principles, textile trends and technical systems. Independent research increases student capacity to experiment and develop confidence in testing, justifying and evaluating new and traditional methods of practice.
ONLINE COURSEWORK
Resources for this subject are located on Canvas. These are used to support the learning objectives of this subject. A detailed overview of the pedagogy and associated tasks and assessment items are included in the subject documents. In addition, a comprehensive reading list comprising recommended texts is accessible from UTS Online.
From time to time, students will be required to visit industry specialists or related exhibitions to support their learning. Students will be advised in advance and/or exhibitions will be recommended for students to visit for their research.
FEEDBACK
Students will have several opportunities to receive feedback during the subject. The feedback provided will vary in form, purpose and in its degree of formality. Typically, the format of feedback is verbal and /or written. All feedback on assignments will be cross-reference to the briefing/assessment documents.
Formative feedback will be provided during the learning process, typically provided online verbally by the subject's teaching staff during studio sessions. It will address the content of work and a student's approach to learning in general and more specific ‘assessment orientated’ terms. It is designed to help students improve their performance in time for the submission of an assessment item. For this to occur students need to respond constructively to the feedback provided. This involves critically reflecting on advice given and in response altering the approach taken to a given assessment. Formative feedback may also, on occasion, be provided by other students. It is delivered informally, either in conversation during a tutorial or in the course of discussion at the scale of the whole class. It is the student’s responsibility to record any feedback given during meetings or studio sessions.
Summative feedback is provided in written form with all assessed work. It is published along with indicative grades online at UTS REVIEW. Summative feedback focuses on assessment outcomes. It is used to indicate how successfully a student has performed in terms of specific assessment criteria. Feedback, grades and assessment criteria will also be available to students via the REVIEW assessment system 2-3 weeks after the submisson.
Content (topics)
- Natural dyes and mordants
- Shibori techniques
- Patterning and clamp resist dye and binding techniques
- Citric acid painting
- Fibre/ fabric selection
- Research of contemporary natural dye practice
Assessment
Assessment task 1: Natural dye technical file
| Intent: | The intention behind this subject is for students to gain an understanding of natural dye processes and the role of mordants in the natural dye process as sustainable textile practice. Through an intensive workshop students will learn how to achieve a variety of colours using a variety of protein and cellulosic fibres. They will gain gain an understanding of how dyes take to different fibres and will learn how to compile these into a technical dye mannual learning professional studio practice and maintaining printroom health and safety. | ||||||||||||||||||||
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| Objective(s): | This task addresses the following subject learning objectives: 1, 2, 5 and 6 This task also addresses the following course intended learning outcomes that are linked with a code to indicate one of the five CAPRI graduate attribute categories (e.g. C.1, A.3, P.4, etc.): I.3, P.2, P.5 and R.3 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Type: | Project | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Groupwork: | Individual | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight: | 50% | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Length: | Please refer to Task 1: Technical Colour File available in Assignments on Canvas | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Criteria linkages: |
SLOs: subject learning objectives CILOs: course intended learning outcomes |
Assessment task 2: Natural dye patterning and printing
| Intent: | In task 2 students will explore patterning and natural dye printing processes through shibori, stitching, clamp resist, citric acid painting onto both cellulosic and protein fibres. The workshop enables students to explore colour in new ways to extend their understanding of conventional dye methods. Students will develop an increased understanding of the way patterning cloth can be used to communicate concepts and ideas. This project builds upon existing knowledge through a creative response to research, class discussion and experimentation. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Objective(s): | This task addresses the following subject learning objectives: 1, 3, 4, 5 and 6 This task also addresses the following course intended learning outcomes that are linked with a code to indicate one of the five CAPRI graduate attribute categories (e.g. C.1, A.3, P.4, etc.): A.1, I.2, I.3, P.5 and R.1 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type: | Project | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Groupwork: | Individual | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight: | 50% | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Length: | Please check details in Task 2: Patterning Place in assessment brief on Canvas | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Criteria linkages: |
SLOs: subject learning objectives CILOs: course intended learning outcomes |
Minimum requirements
To attend workshop classes and submit each assessment task according to the brief. Students need to attend at least 80% of the workshop classes.
The DAB attendance policy requires students to attend no less than 80% of formal teaching sessions (lectures and tutorials) for each class they are enrolled in to remain eligible for assessment.
Required texts
Black, Sandy, Eco-Chic, The Fashion Paradox,Black Dog Publishing, London, 2008
Flint, India, Eco Colour, Sustainable Dyes for Fashion
Wada, Y., Rice, K., Barton, M. Shibori: the inventive art of Japanese shaped resist dyeing: tradition, techniques, innovation.
Wells, K. 1997, Fabric Printing and Dyeing, Conran Octupus, London.
Recommended texts
Ash & Dyson. 1970. Introducing Dyeing & Printing, Watson-Guptill Publications, New York
Balfour-Paul, J. c1998, Indigo, British Museum Press, London.
Bawden, J. 1994, The Art and Craft of the Fabric Decorator, Reed Consumer Books, Great Britain.
Belfer, N. 1972, Designing in batik and tie dye, Davis Publications, Worcester, Mass.
Braddock, S., O'Mahony, M. c1998. Techno textiles: revolutionary fabrics for fashion and design, Thames and Hudson, London, England
Braddock, S., O'Mahony, M. c2005. Techno textiles 2: revolutionary fabrics for fashion and design, Thames and Hudson, London, England
De Boer Janet. 1987. Dyeing for Fibres & Fabrics, Kangaroo Press Ltd
Eisha Nakano. 1982. Japanese Stencil Dyeing, Weatherhill, New York, Tokyo
Elliot Marion.1993 Painting Fabric, Henry Holt & Company, New York
Fukui Sadako. 1992. Japanese Indigo Design, Kyoto Shoin
Gentile, T A. 1982, Printed Textiles a Guide to creative Fundamentals, Prentice-Hall, New Jersey.
Isset Ruth, 1998. Colour on Paper & Fabric, Batsford, London
Indigo Prints of China, Nam San Publisher, Hong Kong
Joyce, C. 1993, Textile Design the Complete Guide to Printed Textiles for Apparel and Home Furnishings., Prentice-Hall, Englewood Cliffs, N.J.
Johnston Ann. 1997. Colour by accident, Low Water immersion dyeing, Published by Ann Johnston
Kawashima Keiko, Reuter Laurel. 2002. Art Textiles of the World, Vol 2, Japan. Telos Publishing
Korolnik- Andersch Annette. 2002. The colour of Henna, Arnoldsche, Art Publishers
Lesch Alma. 1970, Vegetable Dyeing, Watson-Guptill Publishers, New York
Lloyd Joyce. 1974. Dyes from Plants of Australia & New Zealand. A.H & A.W.Reed Wellington Sydney/London
Lowe John, 1983 Japanese Crafts, John Murray Publishers London
Maile, A. Tie-and-dye as a present day craft, Ballantine Books, New York [1971, c1963]
Mc Carty and McQuaid Matilda Surface and Structure Contemporary Japanese Textiles MOMA 1999
McNamara, A and Snelling,P.Design and Practice for printed Textiles.Oxford,Melbourne.1995
Meller, S.,Elfers, J. 1991, Textile Designs. 200 Years of Patterns for Printed Fabrics arranged by Motif, Colour, Period and Design, Thames and Hudson, London.
Nea, S K. 1971, English Tie-dye: designs, materials, technique, Van Nostrand, Reinhold New York.
Peverill, S. 1988, The Fabric Decorator, Macdonald and Co, London.
Sadao Hibi. 1987, Japanese Detail Fashion, Chronicle Books
Sigrid Wortmann Weltge, 1993, Bauhaus Textiles, Women artists and the weaving workshop,
Thames & Hudson Ltd, London
Simmons Max. 1983. Dyes & Dyeing, Nelson Publishers
Storey, J. 1975, The Thames and Hudson manual of Textile Printing,Thames and Hudson, London.
Tompson frances & Tony. Synthetic Dyeing for Spinners, Weavers, Knitters & Embroiderers. Nelson Publishers
Toshihiko Isa. 1987. Dyeing By Toshihiko Isa, Yobisha Co, Ltd
Von Eztdorf Georgina. 1998, Sensuality, Art & Fabric, Thames and Hudson, London
Wada, Y., Rice, K., Barton, M. Shibori: the inventive art of Japanese shaped resist dyeing: tradition, techniques, innovation.
Wells, K. 1997, Fabric Printing and Dyeing, Conran Octupus, London.
Other resources
Other resources will be provided with each assessment task in class, please check Canvas