University of Technology Sydney

83724 Studio: Body Form

Warning: The information on this page is indicative. The subject outline for a particular session, location and mode of offering is the authoritative source of all information about the subject for that offering. Required texts, recommended texts and references in particular are likely to change. Students will be provided with a subject outline once they enrol in the subject.

Subject handbook information prior to 2024 is available in the Archives.

UTS: Design, Architecture and Building: Design
Credit points: 6 cp
Result type: Grade and marks

Requisite(s): 83621 Studio: Foundations in Patternmaking and Construction 1 AND 83882 Foundations in Patternmaking and Construction 2 AND 83119 Thinking Fashion AND 83231 Fashion Cultures

Description

This subject builds on the speculative design strategies that students developed in the first year into a practical and material realisation of several garment designs through drape. Students explore aspects of the micro-interactions that unfold between our bodies and our clothing in wearing. These interactions are not something that we typically notice unless there is something that might be causing discomfort such as a waistband pinching a part of the body or a sleeve falling off a shoulder. However, our garments are always interacting with our bodies in movement, a constant flow of ongoing exchanges throughout our everyday lives.

These exchanges can be considered emergent dynamics - meaning that they are a series of exchanges revealed only in the process of the garment and the body coming together in movement. Understanding fashion through this particular lens, we can draw attention to these dynamics and actively construct relationships between the body and the materiality of our clothing. This lens also provides a shift away from the pervasive approaches to fashion that foreground the visual and provides a touchstone for original and creative outcomes.

Employing sustainable only approaches to materials, upcycling practices and resourcing with recycled materials, students apply this lens to fashion as a starting point for the creation of a body of work incorporating a series of garments across two looks and a 'design research proposal.'

Subject learning objectives (SLOs)

On successful completion of this subject, students should be able to:

1. Respond to feedback and constructive criticism and work collaboratively within studio.
2. Develop an original design aesthetic through experimenting with design on the mannequin.
3. Understand the importance of taking risks and challenging boundaries.
4. Apply skills in self directed learning and time management within and outside of studio.
5. Demonstrate new appropriate levels of technical skills aimed at the high-end fashion market.
6. Reflect on practice and research and understand the integral relationship between them.

Course intended learning outcomes (CILOs)

This subject also contributes to the following Course Intended Learning Outcomes:

  • Effectively communicate concepts in fashion and textiles in performative, oral, visual and written forms (C.2)
  • Respond to constructive criticism and feedback (C.3)
  • Develop an original aesthetic sensibility (I.1)
  • Demonstrate an ability to speculate, experiment, challenge boundaries and take risks (I.2)
  • Demonstrate self-directed learning and self-initiated problem-solving (P.1)
  • Demonstrate the ability to acquire, use and integrate relevant technical skills into creative projects. (P.2)
  • Effectively manage time to complete projects with accuracy, rigour and care (P.4)
  • Accuracy, rigour and care (P.5)
  • Analyse and synthesise knowledge in both visual and written forms to undertake in-depth research. (R.1)

Contribution to the development of graduate attributes

The term CAPRI is used for the five Design, Architecture and Building faculty graduate attribute categories where:

C = communication and groupwork

A = attitudes and values

P = practical and professional

R = research and critique

I = innovation and creativity.

Course intended learning outcomes (CILOs) are linked to these categories using codes (e.g. C-1, A-3, P-4, etc.).

Teaching and learning strategies

1 hour lecture, followed by 2.5 hour design/drape studio.

Lecture: 9-10am
Studio: 10-12.30pm / 1.30-4pm.

Subject will be delivered in a studio-based learning environment.

Fashion Studios are available to students for the entire day on Wednesdays, in compliance with Covid safe protocols. Students are therefore expected to be in the Fashion Studios and Fashion Workshop working on Wednesdays, outside of face-to-face studio hours.

Feedback:

Your Design Mentor will offer feedback weekly in your studio session. Students will receive on the spot instruction and support from their Design Mentor/s as well as having many opportunities to discuss their ideas with their peers and engage in self-evaluation.

Formal written feedback will be provided for each of the assessment tasks and will be available from REVIEW.

Preparatory activities:

Preparation activities will vary week-to-week. Some weeks will involve engaging with resources such as videos, websites, readings or self-directed learning exercises. As students progress through the subject, preparatory activities may include fabric sourcing, sampling or constructing toiles, etc., prior to class. Preparatory activities will be listed in Canvas or emailed to you the week before. To make the most of your studio time and feedback session with the Design Mentor/s, it is important that preparatory activities are completed prior to class.

Engaging in Lectures, Studio and Seminars:

The lectures will provide students with an understanding of various aspects of the fashion industry. Some weeks will discuss a theory, design process or introduce you to an Industry Specialist. Students are encouraged to prepare themselves each week by addressing the preparatory activities or researching the topic. There will be opportunities for students to ask questions, clarify issues, explore ideas and create discussion.

Studio and workshop sessions will involve meeting with the Design Mentor or tutor/s weekly to discuss your research, concepts and design progress and weekly feedback will be discussed with students and documented.

Independent and self-managed learning:

There is ongoing encouragement for students to learn from each other as well as reflect on their experiences through lecture and studio discussions. The requirement for self-directed learning and time-management (in and out of class) mirrors the requirements of professional practice. Self-management strategies and independent learning are crucial to continuing development as a design practitioner. The subject outline will provide you with a guide regarding weekly requirements; it will be up to students to adhere to the week-by-week program. It is the student’s responsibility to record any feedback given during studio sessions or meetings. This will assist in how iterative development can be accessed and ultimately assessed.

Content (topics)

  • Draping for contemporary fashion design
  • Design research
  • Sustainable approaches to materials
  • Pattern transposing
  • Advanced construction techniques
  • Completed design outcome

Weekly program content is subject to change. From time to time, we may have international guest lecturers and other opportunities for student participation.

Assessment

Assessment task 1: Design Drape Toiles

Intent:

Assessment Task 1 requires students to present the work that they have generated in the Studios during the first 6 weeks of the semester. The studio's focus is on explorative drape-led design, one technical studio is scheduled in Week 6 to resolve fit and make issues with the toiles.

Objective(s):

This task addresses the following subject learning objectives:

4 and 5

This task also addresses the following course intended learning outcomes that are linked with a code to indicate one of the five CAPRI graduate attribute categories (e.g. C.1, A.3, P.4, etc.):

P.1, P.2, P.4, P.5 and R.1

Type: Project
Groupwork: Individual
Weight: 50%
Criteria linkages:
Criteria Weight (%) SLOs CILOs
Coat Toile is a resolved design, showing consideration to proportions, flow and detailing 20 4 P.4
Coat Patterns are finished and correct. 5 5 P.5
Dress Toile is a resolved design, showing consideration to proportions, flow and detailing 20 4 P.2
Dress Patterns are finished and correct. 5 5 P.5
Student has shown weekly progress and is engaged in studio. 20 4 P.1
Drape process has been undertaken to a high standard and is documented in the Process Journal 30 4 R.1
SLOs: subject learning objectives
CILOs: course intended learning outcomes

Assessment task 2: Design Drape Garments

Intent:

Assessment Task 2 is the capstone assessment for the subject. Students will present their final garments as two finished looks and a visual interpretation of these looks in technical and creative illustration and elaboration of the conceptual underpinnings of their work in a Design Research Proposal. Assessment Task 2 also focuses on fostering students' ability to work more independently, making use of the sewing workshop and other resources and receiving formative feedback from Design and Technical staff on the progress of their pieces.

With a focus on working independently, students will continue to attend Design Studios which focus on the development of their conceptual garments. For this final assessment task students will present their final body of work, consisting of the two looks shown on fit models and a professionally presented Design Research Proposal to a marking panel. They will discuss their approaches to creating these pieces and the emergent material-body dynamics explored. Fashion work is illustrated technically and artistically presented in the Proposal document.

Objective(s):

This task addresses the following subject learning objectives:

1, 2, 3, 5 and 6

This task also addresses the following course intended learning outcomes that are linked with a code to indicate one of the five CAPRI graduate attribute categories (e.g. C.1, A.3, P.4, etc.):

C.2, C.3, I.1, I.2 and P.5

Type: Project
Groupwork: Individual
Weight: 50%
Criteria linkages:
Criteria Weight (%) SLOs CILOs
Design: Look 1 Coat and Dress, work well together on the body and show strong conceptual approach. Fabrications are well chosen and show sustainable approach to materials. 20 3 I.2
Design: Look 2 garments work well together on the body and show strong conceptual approach. Fabrications are well chosen and show sustainable approach to materials. 20 2 I.1
Design: Lookbook shows Illustrations that are of a high standard and clearly communicate a creative and experimental approach to the brief with a clear relationship to a contemporary fashion context. 20 6 C.2
Technical: Look 1 Coat and Dress, are well constructed and shows proficient technical ability. 10 5 P.5
Technical: Look 2 is well constructed and shows proficient technical ability. 10 5 P.5
Students are engaged in studio and responsive to feedback. Their work is developed weekly with multiple toiles shown and discussed with staff. 20 1 C.3
SLOs: subject learning objectives
CILOs: course intended learning outcomes

Minimum requirements

The DAB attendance policy requires students to attend no less than 80% of formal teaching sessions (lectures and tutorials) for each class they are enrolled in to remain eligible for assessment.

Required texts

Kiisel, K, 2013, Draping: The Complete Course, Laurence King (ISBN: 9781780672861)

Shaeffer, C.B. 2011, Couture Sewing Techniques, Taunton Press (ISBN: 9781600853357)

*Readings from the above texts will be avaialble through the e-Reading link at the UTS Library website

Other resources

Amaden-Crawford, C, 2012, The Art of Fashion Draping, Bloomsbury Publishing

Armstrong, H, 2010, Patternmaking for Fashion Design (5th Ed), Pearson

Armstrong, H, 2013, Draping for Apparel Design, Bloomsbury Publishing

Berg Fashion Library-Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, 2010 (UTS Library-electronic version)

Breward, C, 1995, The Culture Of Fashion, St. Martin's Press, London

Dubury, A, 2014, Draping-Art and Craftmanship in Fashion Design, ArtEZ Press

Davis, F, 1992, Fashion, Culture, And Identity, University Of Chicago Press, Chicago

De La Haye, A, 1997, The Cutting Edge, V&A Publication, London

De Nicolay-Mazery, C, 2010, Cristobal Balenciaga, Philippe Venet, Hubert de Givenchy: Grand Traditions in French Couture, Flammarion

Evan, C, 2007, Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity, and Deathliness, Yale University Press

Gaimster, J, 2011, Visual Research Methods in Fashion, Berg

____ Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: œuvre intêgral 1962-2002, 2010, Êditions de la Martiniére (UTS Library City Campus - Special Collections)

Mendes, V, 1999, 20th Century Fashion, Thames and Hudson, London

Nakamichi, T, 2010, Pattern Magic, Laurence King

Steele, V, 1997, Fifty Years Of Fashion, Yale University, London

Wolff, C, 1996, The Art of Manipulating Fabric, Chilton Book Co, NY

Blogs and websites:

The Cutting Class

http://thecuttingclass.com/

Style.com

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/

Haute Couture moulage: Draping at Christian Dior

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGULpcJKbmc

Iris van Herpen

http://www.irisvanherpen.com/

WGSN (UTS subscription)

https://www.lib.uts.edu.au/